| Setting
Posts and Beams |
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Once the footings are
poured, its time to begin installing posts. We can not
determine your exact post length. You should set them in
place before you trim them to length. |
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| Plumbing
and Bracing Posts |
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Place 2x2 or 1x4 bracing
stakes about two feet away from the posts.Nail,Screw or
clamp the braces to the stakes. Make sure they are enough
to reach the posts at about a 45 degree angle. Drive a
nail where it intersects the post. Use a level against
the post to get it vertical, then tack the brace. If you
clamp the level to the post, you'll have both hands free
to plumb and nail the post. Repeat this process on the
adjacent side. Post may not be perfectly straight, so use
a level long enough to span any bow in post. |
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| Marking
Post Heights with a Level |
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To make your level longer
you can lay it on top of a long straight 2x4. Sight along
the edge of the board to check its straightness. Keep in
mind that you must mark along the bottom edge of the
board. After marking the height of the top of the ledger
on your post, you must subtract the depth of the joists
(usually the same as the ledger). If you are using a
sandwich beam,this is the height of the cut. If you are
going to install a solid beam on the top of the post
under the joists, subtract the depth of the beam as well. |
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| Marking
Post Heights with a Level |
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To make your level longer
you can lay it on top of a long straight 2x4. Sight along
the edge of the board to check its straightness. Keep in
mind that you must mark along the bottom edge of the
board. After marking the height of the top of the ledger
on your post, you must subtract the depth of the joists
(usually the same as the ledger). If you are using a
sandwich beam,this is the height of the cut. If you are
going to install a solid beam on the top of the post
under the joists, subtract the depth of the beam as well. |
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| Measuring
Posts with a Water Level |
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Water levels rely on the
principle that liquids always seek their own level.
They're extremely accurate and come in handy when you
have to make repeated marks at the same height. Most
water levels come with 25 or 50 feet of tubing. If you
place the level in the center of your site, its working
length will double. Once the level is set up, one person
can easily mark all posts. |
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| Cutting
the Posts |
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Before sawing the post,
brace it firmly. For greater accuracy you can clamp a
square to the post to guide and support the saw as it
cuts. If you will be cutting off more than a foot of
waste, have someone hold the scrap to keep it from
falling on you or binding the saw blade as it cuts
through. |
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| Jig
for Cutting Posts |
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If your deck has a lot of
posts, consider making a jig. It will help you align saw
cuts from opposite sides of the post, with only one mark.
It improves your accuracy by guiding the cut, and it
supports the weight of the saw for extra safety. Make
sure that all the parts are cut squarely. The longer
sides(about a foot long) flex enough to be clamped to the
post. Also remember to offset the jig by the distance of
the sawblade to the edge of the shoe. If you build your
jig slightly larger than your posts it will slide up and
down more easily. |
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| Post
Caps |
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This is just one of many
post-to-beam connectors available.. This stsyle acts as a
beam splice - it ties two beams together end to end.
Another Post cap style is designed to connect a post to
the end of a beam. Make sure to use fasteners that are
recommended by the manufacturer. And remember, the design
strength of the hardware can onle be achieved if all the
fastener holes are filled. For deck building, all
hardware and fasteners should be hot-dipped galvanized -
or stainless steel to resist corrosion. |
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| Sandwich
Beams |
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Beams do not have to be
one big piece of lumber. This beam is just 2x10's
sandwiched on either side of the post. Rather than
bearing on top of the posts, bolts transfer its weight.
If you can't buy treated 4x8's or 4x10's, pairing up
smaller stock like this is a good alternative. |